Thursday, March 15, 2007

Visit to Thiruvayur


Visit to Thiruvaiyaru in Thanjavur District from7th to 11th January 2007

During January every year the Aradhana celebrations of Saint Thyagaraja is being telecast by Doordarshan and other channels. Whenever, I used to watch this programme over Doordarshan, I always think of visiting Thiruvaiyaru during the celebrations. During my tenure at Doordarshan, though I had many occasion to visit Thanjavur and other adjoining places, somehow it does not materialize.

After my association with Laughter Club and meeting several people, I had an opportunity to meet friends having same set of minds. Whenever, we meet we used to talk about classical music with special emphasis on Saint Thyagaraja and Purandara Dasa. We also discussed about the contributions made by late Muthuswami Dikshithar, Shyama Sastri. and other giants like Oothukkadu Venkasubbaiyer,Mysore Vasudevachar,Swathi Thirunal,Muthaiah Bhagavathar etc. My knowledge about music is literally zero, however right from the beginning I had cultivated the habit of listening to music and enjoy the essence in it. Listening to music at home and also attending to music programmes in Bangalore and elsewhere is part of my hobby. At times whenever, I feel alone and gloomy, it is music which comes to my rescue. There are certain ragas which kindle my spirit the whole day.

I should thank my mother and sister Rajika solely for my interest in classical music. I used to listen to amma and Rajikka rendering various compositions of Saint Thyagaraja,Shyama Sastri and Muthuswami Dishithar. Rajikka even at this age had a rich voice while rendering various compositions. As I said my knowledge about Thala ,swara and laya in music is zero even though I learnt Instrumental music for three years. Somehow thala has not entered into my mind. Sometime I feel ashamed whenever I see youngsters putting thala in music concerts. I really envy them. On various occasions, I have seen young boys and girls sitting at the fore front of the concert hall listening to music aptly and making notes. I am happy that the younger generation are gearing up themselves in classical music and the days are not far off when we can see many people in the field.

With all humility and reverence to Saint Thyagaraja, I made up my mind to attend the 160th Aradhana Celebrations of Sant Thyagaraja being held at Thiruvaiyaru . During a casual talk with my friend Shri Lakshminarayan, I expressed my desire to visit the place and also other places in Thanjavur and adjoining areas. To my surprise, he also wished to visit the place and accordingly we ventured our programme and decided to do so . We planned this programme during November 06.

I enquired with Rajikka and also Doordarshan friends about the actual date of the programme and accordingly we decided to leave Bangalore on the evening of 6th January 2007. Though we made frantic enquiries to reach Thanjavur by train, due to the big event starting from 4th to 9th January 2007, we could not get train ticket . However, I was able to
get K.S.R.T.C. AC Bus Mayura for our journey on 6th January 07. The bus was really quite comfortable. Self and Lakshminarayana boarded the bus at 8.30.pm and reached Thanjavur by 7.am.the next day 7.01.2007. Immediately, on arrival at Thanjavur old bus stand we started enquiring about the hotel accommodation nearby. Due to the Thyagaraja Aradhana celebrations almost all the moderate and economy class hotels were full. Some of the hotels were charging more. However, to our luck we got into a nearby Eswari Lodge for our stay for two days.

After refreshing ourselves , we had our breakfast at nearby Hotel Kartik. It is very unfortunate to mention here that the upkeep and maintenance at the bus stand and surrounding areas are very poor. The authorities have not given their mind for the upkeep at an important tourist place. There is no use in pointing out these lapses when our so called leaders and civic authorities are not bothered about it.

As per plan we walked our way towards the great Brahadeeswara temple at 9.30.am. This temple is dedicated to Lord Shiva. This was built by the great Chola King. This temple has been declared as an World Heritage Monument A fine example of Chola architecture. We also visited Parvathi ,Ganesha and Murugan temples. It is pertinent to say that these temples are worth seeing. A large number of foreign tourists do visit these places every now and then. More than 1000 shivalingams followed by nandi were seen in the temple gopuram. One should admire the skill and dedication of the sculptors. The abundant prakara and sanctum sanctorum of the temple is a testimony to the encouragement of the Chola King during their tenure . Here we took some snaps.

:Later. we took an auto to see the Palace of Tanjur Maharaja which is now converted into a gallery where one can see number of art works. The Thanjavur Maharaja Serfoji’s Saraswathi Mahal Library is one among the few libraries in the world with texts of the medieval period. It is a treasure house of knowledge. It contains rare and valuable collection of manuscrips, books, maps and paintings. It is an heritage building where one can see many paintings of Ravi Varma. After our visit, we returned to our Lodge at 1.30.pm and rested for sometime and later boarded a bus to Thiruvaiyaru.

It took half an hour to reach Thiruvaiyaru. We immediately went round the place and saw the Samadhi of saint Thyagaraja. I just prostrated before the great Avatara Purusha with all my humility and prayed for sometime. We also saw a huge pandal where two separate platforms were erected for music concerts to enable musicians to render their music one after other without any break. This is an unique event where one can watch the conglomeration of musicians rendering music compositions one after the other. When one programme is going on in one platform, before it could end,. the next participant musician with his accompaniment are ready in the other platform

We were lucky to sit in the front row and could watch the event close by on 7th afternoon. It is very interesting to say that there were number of artists both budding as well as
seasoned senior artists . The pandal as such was full wherein music lovers of India and abroad were seen . In the meanwhile, we collected the V.I.P. Passes to enable our entry to the pandal for the main event on 8.01.2007, the main Pancharathna enclosure. We left the place by 9.30.pm by bus to Thanjavur so as to enable us to prepare for the main event on 8.1.07.

On 8th January 2007 we got up early by 5.am. After our bath and rest we had our coffee nearby restaurant at 7.am . By .7.30.am we had our breakfast and boarded a bus to Thiruvaiyaru. It is a happy to see a lot of bus waiting for passengers to ferry to the Musical extravaganza . By the time we reached the Pandal at Thiruvaiyaru, it was about 8.am.The Pandal was already overcrowded with enthusiastic music lovers However, since we had V.I.P. passes which we collected the previous day, we could get entry into the Pandal without much difficulty. We could watch the programme very close by.

I have not seen such a huge gathering in my life time for a music programme. It is very pertinent to mention here that all the people were seated in a systematic manner. The Musicians comprising vocalists,insrumentalists, percussionists occupied the front row to enable them to render the Pancharathna Krithis of saint Thyagaraja. Earlier, the bronze idol of Saint Thyagaraja was taken in a procession all along the road followed by Oon chavruti Bhajan. One interesting aspect I could notice on the Bhajan route was that every household has put Rangoli in colour in front of their houses. Many musicians did participate in this Bhajan also .It is happy to note that children ,middle aged persons and senior citizens were seated very close by and . some of them carried printed booklet containing the compositions of saint Thyagaraja to enable them to sing the Kritis.

At the stroke of 9.am the Pancharatna Kritis started and ended at 10.am. followed by Maha Mangalarati which is the culmination of the main programme. While the programme was inauguratead on 4th January and concluded on 9.1.07 . After the Maha Mangalarati we got the Prasadam also. Doordarshan, Chennai had made elaborate arrangement for the live telecast of the event. I could also meet some of the colleagues who were earlier working at DDDK,Bangalore.

Later on our way back, we also visited the house of Thyagaraja, which is now under renovation. We also saw a samaradhane in connection with the 160th centenary celebrations of late Thyagaraja.

Before boarding , we also visited the Pancha Nadiswhawar temple constructed by Raja of Thiruvaiyaru, son-in law of Tanjavur Maharaja.. The temple architecture as such was very fine . The temple prakara and sanctum sanctorum was mainly on temple vastu shastra.

At 12.noon we boarded a bus to Tanjavur and reached our Lodge at 12.45.pm and had our lunch at nearby Hotel . After rest and sleep we again boarded a bus to Thitai, a
temple constructed for Guru Bhagavan. We worshipped the lord and got prasadam and left for Thanjavur. At 8.pm, had our dinner and after a stroll we were back to our Lodge and at 10.pm we retired to our bed.
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On 9th January 07 we woke up at 5.45.am and had our tea at 6.am. After bath, we left the room at 7.30.am and immediately got into a bus for our journey to the temple town Kumbakonum. By about 8.30.am we reached the temple town. It is unpleasant experience at this famous place. The bus terminus was so unhygienic and the upkeep and maintenance is very poor. Although, Thanjavur and Kumbakonum attracts more number of tourists both Indian and foreigners, it is really painful to see the upkeep in almost all the places . Even the hotels, it is very poor standard. It is painful to say that though these places generate more revenue, the service to the people/tourists is very poor.

Immediately after arrival at Kumbakonum bus terminus, we had our breakfast and went round in search of a good hotel accommodation. After searching and searching at last we got into a moderate S.M.Lodge at 9.am which is very close to bus terminus. After dumping our luggage, we boarded a bus proceeding towards Thirunallar, the famous Shaniswara temple near Karaikkal(Pondicherry) . It was about 12.00 noon when we reached the temple. The temple is being maintained very well . We had good darshan of Lord Shiva and also Shaniswara. We offered our prayers for the wellbeing of our family members and also kith and kin . It is very important to mention here that whenever I used to receive my salary, I used to keep a small portion in separate covers. One such covers was designated to Lord Shaniswara and a total of Rs.4000/- was collected in this cover.

All the amount was donated to the temple in turn for special puja/ homa in the name of my grand daughter Aditi,son-in-law and daughter. They will send the prasadam to 411 Vignesh At 1.pm we had our lunch nearby hotel. It was not a hotel actually, it is a house wherein a family is serving the people by providing good food. Of course they charge Rs.20/- per leaf. I rate the food served to us was excellent.

Later after our Lunch we boarded a bus to Karaikal to enable us to reach the other destination Shirikali and Vaideswara temple. During bus journey, suddenly I noticed a fat women occupying the vacant seat next to me. She was aged between 30 to 35 very bulky and I was so much irritated perplexed because she had taken away almost all my sitting place leaving very little to me. I can say I was totally sandwiched by her sitting posture My friend Lakshminarayan who was next to me was enjoying my plight since I was in between them. .I showed my unpleasantness in my face and she also expressed her helplessness. At last, her destination came and before alighting from the bus she asked for forgiveness. I cannot blame her, poor girl. When this is my plight just sitting next to her, what would be the fate of her husband ? imagine ;


During our journey, we come across many cross section of people both rich and poor each having their own grouse. I can start writing episode after episodes without any break. I can say I am very happy and I owe a great dept of gratitude to my Lord Guruvayurappan who is always keeping me in good spirit. I cannot forget those days when I had to undergo misery and sorrow . With all this, now I feel it is negligible.

In the meantime we reached Shirikali , the place where the famous musician Shirikali Govindarajan hails . From Shirikali we changed our bus to Vaideswaran temple . After offering our prayer to Lord Vaideswaran, Murugan and Angarakan we left the place by 5.45.pm and boarded to Kumbakonum and it was 7.pm when we reached the Kumbakonum bus terminus. After having our dinner we returned to our Lodge. Unfortunately, in the lodge we had to face mosquito problem in spite of using the mosquito destroyer. Of course we used fan also. The whole night was Shivaratri. Because of open drainage in and around Kumbakonum, mosquito menace is a common phenomenon .

The next morning, 10th January 07, we woke up at 6.am. After bath, we left for Swamy Malai , the famous Murugan temple, in a mini bus which is about 3.km from Kumbakonum . The roads here are very narrow. Somehow we reached the place at about 8.30.am and we were very lucky to have a Good Darshan of Lord Muruga. We were also fortunate to see a Grand Abhisheka of the Lord with Sandalwood paste, milk etc and later decorated with lot of flowers. For our naked eyes such rare occasions will give lot of satisfaction.. My self and my friend were very happy to see this unexpected event. Here I remember, that saint Purandaradasa in one of his compositions has mentioned that Eyes without seeing such rare events in life is no good. When we are hale and healthy we should make use of the opportunity to see such events.

After taking Prasadam, we boarded a mini bus to Kumbakonum. On the way we alighted near Hotel Venkataramana, and had our morning breakfast. This hotel by and large was very fine both in taste and also its ambiens.

Later we visited nearby all the temples namely, Sarangapani, Kumbeshwara, Kundodhari, Lord Rama. Here each temple has its own temple architecture and has its own historical background. Students of history and archeology do visit these temple frequently for their studies. Although these temples are worth seeing, it is very sad and unfortunate that these temples are not being maintained properly. The upkeep and maintenance of these temples are very poor. I feel if the concerned authorities takes little interest at least by levying some entry fees from the visitors, definitely there will be scope for improvement. While visiting these temples we also visited the Maha Magha Kolum, where for every 12 years Mahangam a big event take place. This is the place where a number of people died due to a stampede occurred during the visit of Jayalalitha .


I feel the temple administration in all the temples are very slag in their approach towards the upkeep and maintenance. It is seen that almost all the temple,lands are misused and encroached. The surrounding areas in some of the temples are full of filth and stagnant water percolating all over. There are no proper water management in the temples. While the people of Kumbakonum boast of their temple town but in reality they do agree about the upkeep and maintenance. Here also there are two to three Bus terminus but all of them are in a very bad shape.

After visiting these temples we just roamed in the busy bazaar streets to find out anything interesting . By 1.30.pm, we had our lunch in a nearby hotel and reached our lodge for rest till 4.pm and later left for booking accommodation.

We got the return journey reservation in KSRTC A/C Mayura which was very comfortable. The same day, around 10.pm we left Kumbakonum and reachead Bangalore the next day 11.1.07 at 7.am.

By and large our trip to Thanjavur and surrounding areas were interesting and fascinating.The entire credit goes to my friend Shri Lakshminarayan who throughout the journey was discussing about the various issues both general and public during our journey.

In conclusion, though KSRTC has a good number of AC buses, it is unfortunate that the management has not taken any initiative to interact with passengers about their service and other facilities . As a passenger friendly, KSRTC should make a survey of good hotel in and around tourist important places and also other destinations to advise their crew members to halt at the designated places only which could cater to the needs of passengers Now the Conductor/driver stops the vehicle at their own convenience instead of taking the passengers into confidence.Also the names of such hotels should be printed in brochures to enable bus passengers to know such information in advance.

It is shocking to see that in many places where the buses normally halt for coffee break and lunch, the unclean and nauseating toilets welcome us.It is unfortunate that no one has complained about these issues.

6 comments:

Unknown said...

Hi,

I came across your blogpost while searching for details on Thygaraja Aradhana event in Thiruvayuur. I plan to attend the event on 24th Jan 2009. It would be really helpful if you could let me know as to from where can I buy the VIP passes/or any other passes for the event.

C V Parasuram said...

Hi,

Thanks for going through my write up. you will get the VIP passes at
the aradhana office one or two days before the Main Event The office is very close to the Stage. It is a separate building and anybody nearby will guide you. Yu have to stand in the Que. Pl ensure that you present yourself as early as possible before the start of the event to occupy front seat.+

dransarma said...

Hi,
YOu do have a flair to pen
your thoughts with eclair and yen!
Dr. sarma

dransarma said...

Hi,
YOu do have a flair to pen
your thoughts with eclair and yen!
Dr. sarma

Unknown said...

I actually enjoyed reading through this posting.Many thanks.

Hotel Reservation in Thanjavur

Unknown said...

A well written blog.